ASIAN AMERICAN LIFE: Ulam: The Main Dish documentary

Trailer for Ulam (The Main Dish), above.

“The story of the Filipino American culinary artist is the story of Filipino artists -as a whole- in America. For some reason, we represent the “other,” and furthermore, many first generation American Filipinos are expressing something on a sensory frontier still being carved out. ”

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Dear Foodie Fam,

Read about a really cool documentary I just saw!

Immediately after hearing the word “Ulam”, I was rearing to watch Ulam (The Main Dish). First of all: I’m a food blogger. Second of all: I’m Filipino American… and to explain it even further: “Ulam” means “main dish” in Tagalog. It’s the (sometimes literal) meat of a Filipino culinary gathering.

I was invited to watch Ulam (The Main Dish) by PNDA (Philippine National Day Association) who sponsored a viewing of the film in Sacramento. I watched with a large group of other Americans and my fellow Filipino food blogger, Lariza Barcena (@TheSleepyFoodie).

I wasn’t sure what to expect from the film except for features on Filipino dishes. I was delighted to learn it was actually about Filipino American culinary artists and their stories, instead. Within a few minutes of the introduction (featuring epic shots of seductive food), I was making uncontrollable hungry noises! …And as the movie went on, I found myself so deeply moved I could have cried.

The story of the Filipino American culinary artist is the story of Filipino artists -as a whole- in America. For some reason, we represent the “other,” and furthermore, many first generation American Filipinos are expressing something on a sensory frontier still being carved out.

We are outliers sometimes simply by numbers. I can say this because as an art school graduate, I had to really search for other Filipino visual artists to look up to. I wasn’t trying to mimic anyone. I was just wanting to know how possible it was to have a valid voice that is trying to reconcile ethnicity and nationality. Furthermore, as one who now works in the practical art of communication through design, all the art departments I have ever worked in featured me as the only girl, the only Asian or the only Asian girl. I’m not exactly sure what my individuality is an indication of… so, let’s return to the more abstract culinary arts…

Alvin Cailan, (Chef and Founder: Egglsut, Unit 120)… his story nearly made me cry.

I greatly admire the culinary artists featured in this documentary. They took their voices and fiercely amplified it until their gifts couldn’t be denied. Their failure and their victories spoke to my heart. The artists featured fought against so much to be respected and for their art to be enjoyed.

I am grateful that my own parents supported by desire to go into the arts, but so many Filipino Americans feel they betray their parents by following the arts -culinary included. They never told me anything except that I was talented and I could achieve whatever I worked hard at… but the cultural stigma is so strong that I sometimes still wish I had different professional gifts. Why? So many parents forced their way through to America and labored so hard to provide for their American-based family and their Philippine-based families. They expected their children to have a better life (make more money and have more degrees) than ones regularly lived in the Philippines…

As maids usually take care of cooking in Filipino households… how do we teach Filipinos immigrants that the culinary arts are to be admired?

And as the appreciation of arts usually flourishes in countries who have already found economic stability… how do we teach Filipinos that the culinary professions are as deserving of respect as medical and legal professions?

And how do we teach Filipinos that in America, culture can be so fluid- learned, respected, adapted and added to? Why can’t those who are not Filipino by ethnicity learn, respect, adapt and add to the story of Filipino cuisine?

And how can we teach Americans that Filipino food -stigmatized as “ugly delicious” because of flavors and ingredients not yet popularly dispersed in America- deserves to be elevated to the same level as other cuisines seen as a craft? Like French or Italian cuisine- for example?

Why -in the first place- do so many Filipinos even in the Philippines need to be so possessive of terroir and recipes?

Ulam: The Main Dish was such a necessary film to me because it addressed a lot of these questions which hound my mind.

Left to Right: Lariza Barcena [@TheSleepyFoodie], Alexandra Cuerdo [director/producer of Ulam (The Main Dish)] and me.

I met director and producer, Alexandra Cuerdo. She was the mind, the heart and the eyes behind this beautiful documentary. Meeting her and hearing her talk on a panel organized by PNDA was wonderful. I got to personally thank her for this immensely necessary film. I felt blessed to have watched it. I was deeply moved to have been inspired by and learned from all the stories told.

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Featured Culinary Artists: Alvin Cailan (Egglsut, Unit 120), Nicole Ponseca & Miguel Trinidad (Maharlika, Jeepney), Romy Dorotan & Amy Besa (Purple Yam), Johneric Concordia & Christine Araquel-Concordia (The Park's Finest), Charles Olalia (Ricebar), Chase Valencia & Chad Valencia (LASA), and Andre Guerrero (The Oinkster, Maximiliano, The Little Bear).

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More reading on ULAM: The Main Dish:

• The New York Times

• The LA Times

• Vogue

• Eater: San Diego