Dear Foodie Fam,

Petra, Jordan is a huge tourist destination. I’ve been asked over and over for tips on visiting so here we go!

In this post:

• About Petra

• Petra Tips

• About Petra’s Animals

• Major Points to See/Visit

• What to Wear

• Stores, Stops and People

• Photo Tips

ABOUT PETRA

Interesting basics about this ancient city:

• Alternately called the Rose Red City / Lost City.

• Half-built, half-carved into the rock.

• One of the New 7 Wonders of the World.

• One of Smithsonian Magazine’s 28 places to see before you die.

• Often called Jordan’s “National Treasure”.

• UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Annually, about half a million tourists enter Petra (from the front entrance).

• This city was the Nabateans’ and now belong to the Bdoul (Bedouins). Between the 2nd century BC and the 2nd century AD, the Nabateans thrived in the trade of frankincense, myrrh and spices. They controlled many trading routes including the famous Mesopotamian King’s Highway and were located at the crossroad between Arabia, Egypt and Syria-Phoenicia. As a result, Petra’s grandeur reached it’s height.

• Nabatean architecture is influenced by Assyrian, Egyptian, Hellenistic, and Roman styles. Monuments were fashioned using four main tools: the simple pickaxe, the pointed chisel, the toothed chisel and the flat chisel.

• Seen in movies like Indiana Jones, The Mummy Returns and Transformers.

PETRA BASICS

As of June, 2019:

PARKING

2JD near visitor center/entrance

OPEN HOURS

DAILY: Summer 6AM-6PM . Winter 6AM-4PM . Ticket box opens 7AM

BEFORE YOU BUY TICKETS

• Submit valid passport / ID to the tickets office.

• Cash and Credit Cards are OK.

• Children under 12 years are free of charge.

• Know that the Jordan pass ticket doesn’t include the Night event "Petra by Night."

• Visitor Center sells tickets, arranges for guides, provides info and help visitors.

PRICE

There’s group and individual pricing.

• 1 DAY: 50 JD

• 2 DAYS: 55 JD

• 3 DAYS: 60 JD

• Main Trail + High Place of Sacrifice Monument: 100JD

• Main Trail + Monastery: 100JD

CARRIAGE RIDE PRICING

We took a carriage ride to and from the Treasury because I was ill for five days before this visit. We never take animal rides at tourist sites but I needed to walk a little less. It was pretty cheap and I don’t regret doing it though the rock formations on either side of the main/first trail are gorgeous . It’s known that animals at Petra are not usually well taken care of. I would say the donkeys are by far the ones that seem most weary and unhealthy. The camels and horses seem stronger and more well kept. As our driver barely whipped his horse, we lucked out by having a horse that appeared to genuinely love speed.

(price for 2 people):

• Visitor center to Treasury (roundtrip) 4KM . 20JD

• Visitor center to Museum (roundtrip) 8KM . 40JD

GENERAL TIPS

• The Jordanian Spring and Fall are the best times to see Petra in good weather.

• If you are not staying within Petra, you are most probably going to be staying in Wadi Musa (the city right before Petra’s entrance).

• Getting there: From the airport, you can grab a taxi directly to Petra. There’s also buses from Amman to Petra which will take about four hours of transit.

• Discounted tickets might be available at your hotel.

• Petra by Night is only hosted on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays.

• Thursdays through Saturdays are the busiest days. On Fridays, many Jordanians visit Petra.

• Want to see EVERYTHING and take photos with less people in the background? GO EARLY.

• We loved going by ourselves without a tour guide so we could wander, prioritize what we wanted to do and interact with locals in a more natural way. I do wish I did more historical research before going.

• There’s more to Petra than the Treasury just past that first canyon-esque corridor. Check out a map and the history of different cites on the complex so you know what you’d like to see ahead of time! 

• It takes a very brisk hour and a half to hike from one end of the main compound to the other (the Treasury to the Monastery). Obviously, if you are taking photos, enjoying the view and resting, it takes longer to trek across the expanse. I would suggest planning an entire day around visiting Petra because there’s so much to see, enjoy, take photos of and discover. We had to pause and hydrate more than usual as I was recovering from an illness and as I am naturally prone to heat exhaustion.

• Closing times see most guests filing out politely but you won’t really be harassed for slowly/leisurely making your way back to the complex entrance. If you do this… you might be lucky enough to catch the Treasury at sunset when no one else is there to get in your photos.

• There is a “back entrance” into Petra. We didn’t do it so you would need to research that on your own!

Petra Locals

Petra was once the capital for the Nabataeans but the world still knows very little about them. What we are sure of is Nabataeans didn’t like to be tied down to buildings that would make them easy to enslave. Petra started as a stronghold, became a dominant center of the spice trade and then - even with the inhabiting Bdoul tribe and Egyptian migrants still embracing mobility - a home. There’s been nomadic tribes living in Petra’s cliffs since 400 BC.

In 1985, UNESCO designated Petra a World Heritage site. The Jordanian government created a village near Petra called Um Sayhoun and began trying to relocate the Bdoul tribe. About 300 families moved to Um Sayhoun. However some residents were not impressed by the conveniences of living near a city center and did not leave their home and traditions. Today, 30,000 people live tents or caves in Petra.

We met many Bedouins within Petra. Many of them run souvenir stalls. Others offer camel and donkey rides to hard-to-access, popular scenic areas. UNESCO sees the Bedouin culture as threatened by high tourist traffic. While many Bedouin children enjoy the modern trends of technology and social media, there is so much to make from tourism that many Bedouin children don’t see the need to go to school.

Animals in Petra

There’s lots of cats and dogs in Petra but the animals most common are the camels and horses. You will notice that many will ask you if you want a camel, horse or donkey ride. I didn’t see any cars in Petra.

In America, we do our best to ensure animals serving in commercial functions are taken care of in a legal and humane way. It’s important to note that all over the world, in heavily tourist-ed areas, animals may be subject to abuse, less clean water and housing or malnutrition. It’s good to note the health of the animals you decide to ride.

NOTE: Some animals were obviously malnourished and many also seemed well taken care of and loved. All over the world, I notice that many owners live in the same conditions as their animals and many depend on them as partners in securing a way of life.

MAJOR POINTS TO SEE

• Bab As-Siq and Siq: Part of the 30 minute main trail from the entrance to the Treasury. It’s a natural, narrow canyon-esque rift lined by gracefully undulating stone walls shooting 600 ft up. The walls on either side of the trail are the Madras and Kubtha mountains. You can see water channels, the Obelisk Tomb and other tombs along the way.

• The Treasury: The iconic image most associated with Petra in popular culture.

  The Nabatean-made Treasury (Al Khazna) is a stunning stone-hewn two-story façade graced by Corinthians ornaments and dates back to the 1st century BC. Some scholars believed that this was a temple at some point and that the urn perched above it’s columns is a pharaoh’s treasure. Others believe this was a treasury or library. Whatever it was, seeing it immediately through the exit of the Siq is a breathtaking moment. It’s basically just the first of many things to see in the Lost City!

• High Place of Sacrifice: (at least 30 min from Treasury) shows off a view of the Southern sites: the Royal Tombs, the Nabatean Theatre an the Street of Facades. If you do not hike up there, you can still pass these sites when you leave the Treasury and turn into the widening, immediate path to the right of the Treasury.

• Street of Facades: There’s windows, columns, doorways and archways. There’s homes and tombs 1,000s of years old. The tombs include the Urn, Silk, Corinthian and Palace Tombs. Each have their own look and feel. You can take the traditional on-ground hike or a guided hike above the trail with a killer view.

• Colonnaded Street: Freestanding stone columns line this part of the trail. These date back to around 106 AD when the Romans ran Petra. The architecture in this area is SUPER well preserved. There’s even a 450-year-old pistachio tree, here. Along the street, you can see the Great Temple (build around 100 BC , it’s the largest freestanding structure, here), Temple of Al Uzza, Temple of Dushares, the Winged Lion Temple and Petra Church (where surviving mosaics originate from around the 6th century AD).

• The Dier (The Monastery): This spot is not as photographed all over the place as the Treasury but just as impressive and beautiful. You take the hardest of all the trails (800 steep steps) to get to the Monastery. We couldn’t scale that due to my recovering from an illness and I can’t wait to return to hike this trail. I always hear it is beyond worth the hike.

OTHER

• Keep an eye out for signs of Petra’s water system: dams, levees, and remains of aqueducts.

• Wadi Farasa Trail: An easy hike from the High Place of Sacrifice and passing the Soldier's tomb, Lion Fountain, Garden Temple.

• Wadi Muthilim Tunnel Trail: from the Sextius Florentinus Tomb, wind about half a mile around the Khubtha Mountain. The wadi exits at the dam in the Siq.

• Al Kubtha, Jebal Habis, Jebal Haroun, Um Al-Biera (mountains with lovely views, accessed by sort of difficult hikes).

• Snake Monument (beside Habis).

• Al Sabra Suburb: Once an agricultural and industrial Nabatean area. You might want to take a guide out here from Darshares Temple.

• Al Beidha: Tucked within a mountain, this is a “Little Petra".

WHAT TO WEAR

• Desert weather is extreme. It can feel scorching in the day and frigid at night. I suggest wearing a pashmina to cover your head from the daylight heat and to cover yourself from the super night chill no matter what season you visit Petra.

• Lots of visitors wear a keffiyeh. They’ve got special red and white ones - Jordanian colors - at any store near Petra and the ones near the entrance gate. They’re traditional and good for sun protection.

• Wear comfortable shoes with tread. The lost city is a city… so it’s not like a small city block! There’s a lot of hiking and climbing to be done.

• Wear sunglasses. It’s dusty and bright.

• Wear sunscreen.

• More tips on dressing as a female in Muslim-majority countries: Read my blog post, here!

STORES, STOPS AND PEOPLE

• You can bring water and snacks into Petra. I’d suggest doing this.

• There’s lots of vendors selling wares right off the trails, in major sites and in little stores. Not everyone sells the same stuff and some sell small trinkets like beads and coins. I wouldn’t dig for anything of genuine antiquity but it’s still some pretty stuff. If you’d like to support them, buy their crafts.

• There’s lots of people selling services. You will be approached by people who want to take you to see certain sites or give you donkey, camel or horse rides. Do what you like - just don’t be surprised by the hustle.

• Many Bedouins who still live in the city rely on offering tourists products and services for income. Know how to stand by your “no”. The pitch is constant and some will re-approach you, too.

• Many of the peddlers approaching you will be children. Less Bedouin children are attending school to stay within Petra and make a living offering services and products to tourists. It’s your choice whether or not you want to support this practice with your own money. Dutch and I usually don’t buy goods from children in any country, however we made a special young friend who we spent time getting to know and who we did end up buying a pack of postcards from.

• Like in other Arab countries, it’s nice to socialize with shop keepers. Advice and tea or pomegranate juice will probably be given with your chat.

• There are some bathrooms along the trail and some small shops for water. If you come across one, I’d take advantage of it even if you don’t yet feel like it.

• Make sure to bring wipes on this hike. Some bathrooms are like any national park bathroom and do not have a reliable supply of toilet paper.

• As you hike along, you will come across a lot of carved out rooms where people once (or currently) live (and rest). Research ahead of time if you’d like to stay with a local for a visit.

• The main restaurants along the hike lie between the Street of Facades and Theatre and beside the Monastery.

PHOTO TIPS

• The further into the city you go, the emptier your photos will be.

• All those higher-elevation photos taken of bloggers looking down at the treasury? Those are technically illegal to take. You’ll still have more than 123143924932849038 opportunities to pay a local to guide you up to the spot and take a photo… but Dutch and I always err on the side of safety. If something were to happen to us (ie: hurting ourselves), we wouldn’t be able to do a lot in the way of reparations.

• Don’t forget to take detail shots of the extraordinarily well kept structures. Each close up seemed a framed piece of art to me!

I dreamt of visiting Petra for over a decade and I am beyond grateful to finally have seen the Lost City.

It’s funny to have gone with Dutch. We met in high school a little after I started dreaming of Petra. To think both dreams would come true for me (being with him and being in Petra) was too much happiness for my little heart!

I hope I never forget the awe I felt in that ancient world.

All our photographs could not capture the magical feeling this breath-taking site gave us. There was wonder in the dust. There were so many stories to learn, here! My experiences getting to know the Bedouins was also stunning. I love learning what we have in common with different people from different walks of life!

Visiting Petra is one experience I believe is worth saving up for and savoring!

Sources

• Bucketlistly

• Culture Trip

• Earth Trekkers

• Nabatea.net

• Reynolds, Ian (2012) "The History and Architecture of Petra," JCCC Honors Journal: Vol. 3: Iss. 2, Article 3. Available at: http://scholarspace.jccc.edu/honors_journal/vol3/iss2/3

• Travel Triangle

• Tripadvisor

• Visit Petra